The Kooyong vineyard is located on the Mornington Peninsula at Tuerong, on Miocene sedimentary soils. Our wines are made from domain grown, handpicked grapes and aim to manifest terroir: the integration of our geology and soils with the macroclimate of our region, the mesoclimates of the various sites within our vineyard and the weather of the annual grape growing season. Our cultural operations in the vineyard and practices in the winery endeavour to articulate these unique characteristics diligently, respectfully and without artifice.
The 2014-2015 growing season began with lower than average rainfall throughout the winter. Budburst occurred at a normal time and was followed by a spring that also had lower than average rainfall, along with moderate temperatures. These growing conditions led to vines with less vigour than usual. Flowering conditions were good; however, we received slightly below average yields due to cold conditions experienced during the 2013 flowering period. Several large periods of rainfall throughout the season were managed effectively, and the vineyard remained disease free.
The period between January and late March was relatively cool, with January much cooler than historically usual. With the exception of one rain event, the mild and still weather continued throughout the harvest period. This allowed for a calm yet constant harvest for the viticultural team. Harvest began in late February and was finished in late March.
This single-block wine is sourced from just 1.02 ha of a 17-year-old gently sloping 2.76 ha Chardonnay vineyard. The mottled appearance of the clay soil is caused by a high percentage of ironstone pebbles, much like the Ferrous vineyard. This siliceous influence helps infuse the resulting wines with linearity and minerality. The grapes were gently whole-bunch pressed directly into French oak barriques (15% new), where fermentation occurred spontaneously with ambient yeasts. After fermentation the wine was aged on lees (without battonage) for 12 months, with the only racking occurring directly prior to bottling. The wine was bottled without fining and with minimal filtration.
The nose of the 2015 Farrago is initially dominated by flint and wet rocks with other typical Farrago notes following: mandarin, tangerine and orange blossom. Subtle fennel and bran aromas come and go. Intense ruby grapefruit and lime flavours dominate, with penetrating acidity flowing through the palate. There is an underlying fleshiness that also helps drive the wine along. Long, seamless and powerful, this is a Farrago destined for a long life.
Tangy stone fruit flavours cut a swathe across one’s first impressions. The high quality oak sits in there, too, merely an adjunct to guide the unwinding flavours, rather than a shout above the wine’s inherent complexity. The intensity of flavour, rapier-like initially before expanding to a broader blade, is impressive. The finish is exceptionally long. A wine to drift off to. To: 2025.
Ned Goodwin MW
By contrast, Farrago is clay with some ironstone pebbles. This is a step up in concentration after the Faultline, but also it seems stonier too. A line of funk, then oatmeal before a meets rather cool and sophisticated fruit. Hangs its hat on acid. Great length! Maybe a smidgen sweet and sour, but the palate is classy, with a slow build of cool nectarine fruit and thirst quenching acidity. Top flight, crystalline modern Chardonnay if just a smidgen lean.
Has lots of hen and chicken in this block. It’s Mendoza clone. Beautiful aromatics here: refined matchstick mineral nose with pear and lemon peel. The palate has tangerine and lemon characters. Such purity and precision with lovely acidity, well integrated into the citrus core of this wine.
Taut and trim, with a penetrative, mineral and smoky bouquet of grapefruit, lemon and creamy nougat-like notes backed by ginger, cloves and matchstick oak. It’s long and stylish, with an evenly paced and textured presence of searingly intense fruit, fresh oak and struck match minerality wrapped in a bracingly fresh acidity. Give it time.
ntensity and length, is what pops into my head after the first sip. Wheatgerm, grapefruit, white peach, struck match and cashew. It bursts with ruby red grapefruit and peach, has a firm flinty texture and tight acidity, yet gentle glycerol texture to smooth things along, and finishes with supreme length, crackling with fireworks and juicy acidity. Great wine. Now, or later.